California chardonnay can be complicated.
Not just the wines themselves. The reaction to them as well.
Some people adore them.
Others despise them. There’s even a phrase for this – ABC – Anything But Chardonnay.
Part of that might have to do with their popularity. Chardonnay is often the most popular (or second most popular) wine by grape sold in the United States most years. And most of that chardonnay wine comes from California.
Many of us know someone who doesn’t like something just because it’s popular.
Others might not like California chardonnay because they often used to be so oaky, so over the top.
Thankfully, many California winemakers got the message. Most of us want wines that taste like the grape, not the barrel they’re aged in. We want subtle wines with complexity, with nuance, with distinct flavors.
This week, you can learn more about three outstanding California chardonnays – two from Napa Valley and one from Sonoma County.
One thing they have in common is the chardonnay grapes used to make them all come from colder parts of California, something chardonnay grapes often love.
Let me add that these wines cost $30 to $50 a bottle.
Hope you enjoy.
2021 Fort Ross Winery Sea Slopes Chardonnay ($30 Suggested Retail Price)
Region: Sonoma Coast, California
Sonoma Coast is the part of Sonoma County right on the Pacific Ocean north of San Francisco. This matters since this part of Sonoma County’s cooler and wetter than other parts of the same county. That might sound like terrible weather, but it’s ideal for certain grapes, especially chardonnay. Like France’s Burgundy region, chardonnay thrives in this cool, wet part of California. This particular chardonnay tastes like the refreshing ones you often find in the southern part of Burgundy near Macon. It’s crisp, fresh, lively and has hints of lemon, sea salt, pear and lime – perfect for a warm summer day.
2021 Baldacci Family Vineyards Chardonnay ($50 SRP)
Region: Carneros, Napa Valley, California
The Carneros wine region is located in between California’s Napa Valley and Sonoma County. Like the Sonoma Coast region described above, Carneros is cooler than many other parts of Napa and Sonoma. It’s also windier and wetter than other parts of both regions, which is ideal for chardonnay. The result – another fresh, lively wine with hints of citrus, lemons, pear and caramel, without being too sweet. A truly charming California chardonnay.
2021 Mount Veeder Winery Napa Valley Chardonnay ($50 SRP)
Region: Mount Veeder, Napa Valley, California
The Mount Veeder section of Napa Valley has a lot in common with Carneros, which is only a few miles east. Both have windy, cooler weather and regular fog. But Mount Veeder also has steep slopes, which puts extra strain on the vineyards, which is always a good thing when it comes to making great wine. (I know, it makes no sense. The more challenging the growing conditions, the greater the wine, in many cases.) This particular chardonnay has a slight hint of oakiness many people associate with California chardonnays without being overpowering. It’s also flinty, fresh and vibrant with hints of lemon, pear and vanilla. An absolutely outstanding wine perfect for any time of year.
Cheers!
Wine Press by Ken Ross appears on Masslive.com every Monday and in The Republican’s Weekend section every Thursday.
